General updates from the field of ingredient defence, including acetophenone, heliotropine, CLH proposals on l‑Carvone, spearmint oil and galaxolide.
During summer 2025, two derogation dossiers were submitted by industry for acetophenone (CAS n° 98-86-2) and heliotropine (CAS n° 120-57-0), to support the continued use of these ingredients in cosmetic products. In the case of acetophenone, only its presence as a constituent of Natural Complex Substances (NCS) is covered by the SCCS dossier.
In early September 2025, the public consultation on the harmonized classification and labelling (CLH) proposals as Repr. 2 for both l-carvone (CAS No. 6485-40-1) and spearmint oil (EC/List No. 616-927-4 / CAS No. 8008-79-5) closed. IFRA coordinated the submission of comments expressing disagreement with these proposals. These two ingredients, together with tonalide (CAS n°s1506-02-1 / 21145-77-7), will be discussed by the ECHA RAC in 2026. IFRA is facilitating the formation of a consortium for l-carvone and spearmint oil, with the objective of preparing an SCCS dossier to support the continued use of these ingredients in cosmetic products.
On 28 October 2025, the ECHA RAC CLH Working Group discussed the CLH proposal for Galaxolide (CAS No. 1222-05-5) as Repr. 1B and concluded on a Repr. 1B classification for developmental toxicity. This classification is expected to be adopted during the ECHA RAC Plenary meeting at the beginning of December 2025. IFRA participated in this meeting, together with a company expert, to defend the non-classification of this ingredient.