“Instant Lavande” Brings Together Fragrance Stakeholders for Dialogue on Natural Ingredients and Regional Resilience

In a context of tightening regulations and growing public expectations, the first roundtable, moderated by Diane Saurat-Rognoni, explored the scientific, regulatory and economic challenges facing the industry.

Catherine Gadras (Robertet Group) illustrated the regulatory surge, noting that Robertet now mobilises 80 experts—up from just 10 in 2005—half of whom work exclusively on European compliance. Cynthia Sanfilippo (L’Oréal) stressed the importance of dialogue across the entire value chain, reminding participants that 70% of global cosmetic innovation is born in Europe.

From a scientific standpoint, Professor Ivan Buchvarov (Sofia University) advocated for a risk-based approach to ingredient evaluation, more attuned to the specific nature of natural substances. IFRA President Alexander Mohr, PhD, underlined the importance of engaging with EU decision-makers upstream, given the global influence of European regulation. He also emphasised the crucial role of national associations, such as PRODAROM, in speaking with one voice for the sector.

European Parliament member François-Xavier Bellamy closed the session with a firm statement of support for the fragrance industry and its use of natural ingredients, calling for closer cooperation with authorities to build a proportionate and forward-looking regulatory framework.

The event also marked a symbolic expansion of the European Fragrance Cities Network, welcoming Kazanlak (Bulgaria) as a new member—strengthening a cross-border alliance of regions bound by a shared perfumery heritage.

The second roundtable focused on how local ecosystems contribute to the identity and resilience of fragrance territories.

Speakers presented concrete initiatives, including the Indication géographique for Absolues from Grasse, introduced by Armelle Janody (Les Fleurs d'Exception du Pays de Grasse). This geographical recognition, obtained in 2022, strengthens ingredient traceability and recognises the role of local farmers.

Jean-Noël Falcou (Jean GAZIGNAIRE - Groupe MUL) discussed the practical challenges of reviving lavender cultivation in the Alpes-Maritimes, from difficult terrain and limited mechanisation to administrative burdens—prompting his group to take on direct farming efforts focused on biodiversity and biotope preservation.

Alain Aubanel (PPAM de France) highlighted pressures from climate change and overproduction, while championing the long-term vision of seeking UNESCO recognition for lavender landscapes. Philippe Massé (PRODAROM) reaffirmed the importance of skills transmission, noting that 2,200 people were trained in 2023, many of them from international backgrounds.

Innovation was another key theme: Marine Canton (Université Côte d'Azur) detailed research efforts on natural ingredient analysis, startup support, and partnerships with organisations like RIFM. Franck Chuzel (LifeScientis) underscored the need for rigorous risk assessments and eco-design principles.

Finally, Eric Angelini (MANE, EFEO) highlighted collective efforts by IFRA and IFEAT within the REACH and CLP revisions, aiming to secure regulatory recognition for the complexity of natural fragrance ingredients.

In closing, Mayor Viaud stressed the importance of territorial diplomacy—building strong local models that are sustainable, rooted in heritage, and open to the world.